*Waist measurement on the Size 16 = 28"These are from a Bucilla/Bear Brand book from 1939 that not only gives the standard measurements for that time period, but also fairly clear instructions on adapting patterns to fit.
The following is a copy of the original instructions for resizing a pattern.
Please bear in mind that vintage clothes fit ALOT closer to the body than modern ones! According to these charts I'm a size 16, but when I made a sweater using that info for the sizing it was way too small! I will probably go with a size 18 or 20 on these charts just to get the extra room I'm used to.
The directions for most garments are given in Size 16. For each larger or smaller size, the number of stitches and rows to be worked must be altered according to the different measurements n width and length for the new size. the normal change in width for each size is 2 inches (1 inch for front, and 1 inch for back). If a special pattern stitch is used, attention must be paid to the number of stitches needed for the pattern).
Take your own measurements in places as indicated on Chart A, then decide which one of the size charts comes nearest to your own measurements. f your measurements differ in any particular place from the standard measurements on the chart, make these changes on your chart. Now multiply the number of inches on your chart with the number of stitches in the gauge and you have the number of stitches needed in width at this particular place on your garment. Change (decrease or increase) the number of stitches accordingly The length measurements are easier to adjust as you can measure the needed length in inches as he work proceeds. If the difference in length is considerable (as may be the case in length of sleeves, armholes, skirts, etc.). make less or more rows between decrease or increases in order to get the proper width at the required length.
Decrease more stitches at beginning of armholes in the larger sizes as the difference between bust measure and bank and front upper body width is greater in the larger sizes.
A skirt may be worked any desired length, but all changes in distance between decreasing rows must be made before the hip line; the hip measure marked on the chart must be attained 7 inches below waistline.
Please bear in mind that vintage clothes fit ALOT closer to the body than modern ones! According to these charts I'm a size 16, but when I made a sweater using that info for the sizing it was way too small! I will probably go with a size 18 or 20 on these charts just to get the extra room I'm used to.
"Knit to Fit"
First work a sample piece to determine the right Gauge. Before beginning work on a garment, take the yarn and needles specified in the directions, cast on 20 stitches (or if a specified pattern stitch is used, cast on a multiple of the number of stitches required for the pattern). Knit 2 inches in the pattern used in the garment. At beginning of directions fro each garment you will find that the number of stitches to 1 inch, and the number of rows to one inch is given. This is called the gauge. By comparing this gauge with the number of stitches and rows to one inch on your sample, you can make sure whether or not your gauge is the same as the gauge called for in the instructions. If you gauge is different from the gauge called for you garment will be of different size than the garment described. In order to get the same size garment you must adjust your gauge to correspond to that given for the model you intend to make. If the difference in gauge is slight, adjust by tightening or loosening the tension of your yarn when knitting; if the difference is considerable change the size of your knitting needles so that you can obtain the right gauge with ease. The same principle applies when crocheting a garment.The directions for most garments are given in Size 16. For each larger or smaller size, the number of stitches and rows to be worked must be altered according to the different measurements n width and length for the new size. the normal change in width for each size is 2 inches (1 inch for front, and 1 inch for back). If a special pattern stitch is used, attention must be paid to the number of stitches needed for the pattern).
Take your own measurements in places as indicated on Chart A, then decide which one of the size charts comes nearest to your own measurements. f your measurements differ in any particular place from the standard measurements on the chart, make these changes on your chart. Now multiply the number of inches on your chart with the number of stitches in the gauge and you have the number of stitches needed in width at this particular place on your garment. Change (decrease or increase) the number of stitches accordingly The length measurements are easier to adjust as you can measure the needed length in inches as he work proceeds. If the difference in length is considerable (as may be the case in length of sleeves, armholes, skirts, etc.). make less or more rows between decrease or increases in order to get the proper width at the required length.
Decrease more stitches at beginning of armholes in the larger sizes as the difference between bust measure and bank and front upper body width is greater in the larger sizes.
A skirt may be worked any desired length, but all changes in distance between decreasing rows must be made before the hip line; the hip measure marked on the chart must be attained 7 inches below waistline.
