Monday, August 4, 2008

Needlecraft Magazine





NEEDLECRAFT Magazine
© April Carter 2008


Beginning Publication in September, 1909, Needlecraft remained in circulation until WWII. The monthly magazine was published in the, at the time, mecca of women’s periodicals, Augusta, Maine. Over it’s life span of approximately four decades Needlecraft saw several changes, eventually dying in the 1940s, possibly due to a combination of WWII rationing and a general decline in interest for hand done needlework.


Needlecraft magazine is generally accepted to have been published by The Needlecraft Publishing Co., 11 Chaple Street, Augusta Maine. However, the first issues show the publisher as The Vickery & Hill Publishing Co. The change to The Needlecraft Publishing Co. happened somewhere between September 1913 and October 1914. Although unconfirmed, it appears that Needlecraft was started as a way to market the publisher’s clothing patterns. The early issues (1909-??) have several pages of patterns which could be ordered separately from the publisher, The Needlecraft Publishing Company. Lovely line drawings are shown for the various patterns, sometimes including a schematic of the actual pattern.


Interestingly enough, the earlier issues of Needlecraft contained short stories, despite editor Margaret Barton Manning being quoted in 1920 as saying “This publication is devoted exclusively to practical needlecraft for personal and household use, No fiction is published. Reproductions of original pieces of work are used for illustrations.” (From Where and How to Sell Manuscripts, a directory for writers compiled and arranged by William B. McCourtie, publisher The Home Correspondence School, Springfield Mass., copyright 1917, 1920.) Of course, by then The Women’s Institute was running full page ads for their dressmaking course. The ads took the form of short stories illustrating the money which could be saved and the pride gained by making one’s own clothes and are actually quite entertaining themselves.


In addition to to the Needlecraft dress pattern, instructions and patterns for all sorts of needlework are given. There are instructions for crochet, knitting, embroidery, tatting, baby clothes, purses, garments and house linens galore. There is column of tips from other subscribers and one for questions to the editor. The editor’s replies to some of the questions can be quite snippy and I often wonder if Ms Manning got tired of repeatedly answering the same questions. I’ve become fond of her but I suspect that one didn’t want to try her patience!

On top of the abundance of needlework instruction and inspiration there are the ads. From about November 1916 on the cover and selected pages were in color and covers frequently had artwork by well known artists of the period. Herrschner’s first appeared as an advertiser in the inaugural issue, way back on page 22 with a tiny little ad on the bottom of the page. Originally the Frederick Herrschner Co., the company was started in 1899 and is still in business today. Cream of Wheat was an early advertiser even in the black and white issues, but once color was added to the magazine the charming work of Leslie Wallace could be seen in its full glory. Needlecraft magazine is actually almost worth collecting just for the Cream of Wheat ads alone, although they are most definitely not politically correct by today’s standards!



Saturday, July 26, 2008

Plastic Bag Crochet

So yesterday I was taking a break from writing and stumbled across the whole plastic bag crochet thing. You know, where you use your plastic grocery bags to crochet stuff. Of course I immediately cut up a bag and made a little pot scrubber.

As a useful tool for cleaning dishes I'll stick to my scotchbrite sponge, but boy did it make some durable fabric in single crochet! Plus I really like the idea of a shopping bag made of shopping bags. Have you noticed the grocery stores now have canvas bags at the checkout for you to buy? Over priced and all with some reference to going green boldly printed upon them. Not to be too cynical, but I sure wish I had that sewing contract...

I'm old enough to miss the way the old paper bags let you pack things in there in some sort of logical order, unlike the jumbled mess in a plastic sack. One of my first jobs was a bagger in a supermarket. It was like working a jigsaw puzzle with a time limit. Plus the paper bags pretty much stayed put in the back of the car instead of letting things roll about.

I'm designing a pattern for a small tote and will publish the pattern on my Etsy site. Maybe we can get rid of a bunch of the plastic bags cluttering up the world:)


Friday, July 25, 2008

Vintage Needlework Patterns

Welcome to the Patterns Ala Carte blog. I'm April and I've been collecting vintage and antique needlework patterns for a few years now. I sell restored patterns on my Etsy site (patternsalacarte.etsy.com) as well as things I make from the old patterns.

I've been a seamstress and crafter since birth pretty much. This particular zoo started when I saw a beaded purse in an antique shop. Loved the purse, HATED the price. Plus it wasn't in useable shape. I really love old things, but I want to use them, not display them or pack them away. So I was off to learn how to make a beaded purse myself.

That was a few years ago and there's a lot more information out there now than there was then. I spent countless hours tracking down the patterns and then figuring out what the heck "purse twist" was. I'm the proud owner of 2 spools of it now - spent way too much on ebay that day!

During my search, and the on going wait for the NYC Clerk to get back to me (he keeps promising to dig stuff out of archives; it's been 4 years now...) I ran across an absolute TON of patterns for needlework of all kinds.

Considering how much trouble I initially had finding the patterns and instruction I wanted, I figured I'd gather up all the info and start re-writing it. I make samples of the things I really like, mostly purses of course, but other items as well. Since I knit, crochet, tat, weave, spin and sew I can pretty much follow any pattern so I also proof everything and sometimes add some editor's notes to ensure clarity.

The materials called for in the old patterns are either no longer made or called something else. One of my favorite books is a textile dictionary which identifies things like "crash", "albatross", and "surah". Great names but not very descriptive of the fabrics. Knitting needle sizes have also changed over the years. Plus the age old sizing discrepancy between different manufacturers. I have a metric gauge and do A LOT of test swatches!

So I pretty much try to find the modern equivalent for yarns, fabrics, tools and list them in with the patterns. Even the color names have changed! Absolutely hate it when I see those framed Godey's prints in the antique store. They're now separated from the original text and who knows what the heck they were calling pale pink in 1895?

So, as you can see, I keep pretty busy. Not so much that I don't want to hear from all of you. Especially if there's someone out there with information on The Hiawatha Bead Company. I found out that they were a trade name of the Home Needlework Guild, in turn a subsidiary of Dritz-Traum, but then the research dead-ended. Found Hiawatha ads as late as the fifties, but I'd love to fill out the info. Which is why I keep bugging the NYC Clerk....